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My 1988 320i E30

I would say it depends on 1- how expensive it is and 2- whether it would have happened at home.
Obviously, if it was something that could have gone anywhere anytime then he isnt responsible but if it was due to how or where the car was stored then he should definitely be covering it.

You trusted your car to a professional and you should get it back in equal or better condition.
 
I just don't know whether it would have happened at home, it wasn't cracked when I dropped it off (and I have video proof), but apparently it was cracked already when he took the dash out to send it away. This is the glass in the instrument cluster that's been cracked by the way in case I wasn't clear enough. I just haven't heard of the glass on the instrument cluster cracking in an E30 before, or anything else for that matter.
 
that's a hard one mate..

If he's honest, he will do it for free and not try and make the money else where (ie, charge you extra for the other stuff). To be honest, maybe say you'll pay for the lens if he will fit it for free as a compromise..
 
After nearly 10 months, I finally got my car back. I'm really grateful that he didn't charge me for the dash lens or the pulley they lost and he only charged for 11 hours labor instead of the listed 14 hours in the book.

But now I just have to fix everything that didn't get done, like the front left blinker and front right parker light, the odometer that still isn't working and the fuel gauge that's out by 20l, the leaking coolant and the extremely long brake pedal.
 
so, it's a happy and sad day then mate..!! ??

The things are are not fixed, were they on the list to get done?
 
The front right parker is actually working, I just couldn't see it in the daylight, same with the left rear headlight light and the coolant isn't actually leaking, I think it just wasn't topped up enough and the light was always on and I didn't notice. But I do need to get the brakes looked at ASAP.

Plans now are to get the brakes inspected, which will probably just need a bleed or master cylinder/booster adjustment.
Aftermarket fuel gauge so I don't accidentally run out of fuel.
Removing the clutch fan and adding a thermofan.
Get the tappets looked at and hopefully fixed because the constant ticking is extremely annoying.
Finally the intake pipes, just getting a more efficient, higher flowing setup.

In other news, I also found out my E30 has a twin pipe exhaust the whole way through, I didn't think E30s came with that as standard, I have to look into it a bit more. Apparently the hydraulic clutch is aftermarket as well, I have a bit of research to do.
 
I've booked in with Pedders to get their tech check and report for $28. Has anyone had one of these done with Pedders before? What did you think? How comprehensive was it? Was it worth it?
 
Results are in from the Pedders Tech Check. Stage 1 of the Master Cylinder has failed, relying on Stage 2 which is why I have to push the pedal down so far before they start to work properly. Booked in at Brakeland on Wednesday to see if it can be rebuilt or not, worst case it needs new sleevs and seals and everything, $360.
 
Was that all they found? Seems like you have some really bad luck sometimes so hopefully you can get the car running nicely again soon. $360 seems high, a brand new whole unit is about $430 for an oem one and down to about $130 for the cheap ebay stuff. (only a 30s google search so don't know about quality)
 
Wow, it's been a while, hello to everyone still here. An update for you all, I still have my 320i, after some unfortunate troubles, I took my e30 off the road and garaged it. Oil was escaping through a cracked block into a coolant well and was causing the entire cooling system to clog up and overheat. After flushing it out once and refilling the coolant it worked fine for one or two months and clogged again and overheated so I went and bought a new car.

Fast forward to the present day, I am finally getting around to buying another engine WOOHOO! I'm not doing any big engine upgrades, I've just got another m20b20 short block off a mate which will be here in the next week or so. So It's time to get my hands dirty once again. Another friend of mine knows of an E36 being parted out so while I have my engine out I'll look at doing the e36 steering rack swap as well as deleting the clutch fan and going thermo which will free up a small bit of HP.

I'll be sure to keep you guys updated throughout the swap, it feels good to be back.
 
good to see you back mate. It's always good to hear what people are doing. The wife keeps on wanting to move to the country, and one of my conditions is that I get a big enough garage to be able to put in a hoist so I can also do some of these projects (maybe I should also be putting in the budget for the tools I also need!)
 
Me: Racecar?
Also me: Racecar!

So plans now are, keep going with the engine replacement, get the old one out, take off the good bits and put them on the replacement motor and jam it back in.

I just took out the rear seats and belts and will get that mod plated and get some dry-ice to get rid of that pesky sound deadener.

Wrap these BMW meshies in some slicks, those Kumho Ecsta V70As look like a good option from International Tyre Trader, $1175 delivered.

Weld in a half cage and get a pair of bucket seats from the front.

I have a set of stockies for driving to/from the track so finally I will just need to re-register it as a 2 seater.

Exciting plans for the future for sure!
20371186_1282040105240672_909142110_n.jpg
 
Still haven't got around to swapping in the engine, but I folded up the carpet and removed the sound deadener from the back seats and back floor and also the sound deadener from the boot, that was really thick, had to be at least 15-20kg in the boot alone. I didn't use dry ice, instead I used a hair dryer and scraper which worked really well. Interior all back together now and I'll probably end up taking it to a mechanic to swap the engine, realistically I don't have the knowledge to swap the engine myself, so I'll leave it to a professional.
 
yeah, I'm a bit like that... Would love to have a mate/mechanic close enough to 'help' me through the process!

Did you wear a mask with the carpet? probably lost of toxic fumes off the glue/paint/carpet..
 
jnrdavo said:
Did you wear a mask with the carpet? probably lost of toxic fumes off the glue/paint/carpet..
Click to expand...

The thought crossed my mind as I was already doing it, but I didn't no, I was fine but I probably should have haha. I suggest anyone else that does this, wear a mask or have good ventilation lol.
 
Well here I am again, still making slow progress, but progress none the less. Ive comitted to a dedicated race car now. I had the AC degassed and I removed it and the heater core, and Ive taken out the carpet, it weighed a ton. Ive got a bit more sound deadening to remove now that I can get to it.

It really has been a while, Ive had the engine out of the car for a few months now, I went to put the new one in only to find it full of muddy rust. So I'll be taking it in to get cleaned up and reco'd properly. But for now I'll leave you with some progress pics.

15401244502088886524740321756666.jpg
15401245283807253761457030307516.jpg
 
nice one. Did you manage to do a weigh before stripping? The door cards and all the sound deadening will make a huge difference (including speakers, speaker wire etc)... As light as possible is definitely the way to go for a race car. Will be interesting to see the front/rear weight balance after the strip also..
 
Still have everything, haven't broken anything so I -could- bring it back to street spec if I wanted to, or if I sell it.
Planning on weighing everything, only thing I've chucked is sound deadening that I've already removed, which was a good 25kg. The carpet was surprisingly heavy with all the foam glued on underneath, genuinely shocked.
Not sure if I'll remove the headlining yet, I just can't see it being that heavy and I think it'll be difficult to put back in. Same for door cards, I don't want to cut any metal or tear anything.

Something else I forgot to mention, I bought a new brake booster off a 750iL E32 which is apparently a straight swap for the factory E30 boosters. Mine needed replacing anyway so may as well upgrade and go hard.
 
Just took out another few kilos of sound deadening from the front footwells, little bit of surface rust underneath but nothing a wire wheels and some primer cant fix.

20181107_120023.jpg
 
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